Sewing Tips #

This page contains basic information on different fabrics and threads and how to get the right tension for your sewing projects.

Tension #

A bit about tension:

The higher the number, the tighter the tension, and the lower the number, the looser the tension

The top and bobbin thread need to meet in the fabric and not be pulled through too much to the other side of the fabric.

For example, the top thread should not really be seen coming through the bottom of the fabric, and the bobbin thread should not really be seen coming through the top of the fabric.

If your fabric is puckering, gathering or tunnelling, then chances are your tension is too tight.

Helpful video on tension

NOTE: This video uses a sewing machine different from what we have in the lab. On the Janome MC15000, we only have one tension control setting.

Tension Table #

This is a guide to help you get started with ballpark machine settings for the materials we have in the lab. You may need to adjust them, so always test the tension and your materials first until you’re happy with your settings.

These are the tension settings used on the Janome MC15000.

Embroidery:

Sewing:

*Use a zig-zag stitch for stretchy fabric

NOTE: For heavy-weight fabrics and/or sewing two layers of the fabric together, use the dual feed foot to ensure the top layer of fabric is in sync with the bottom layer.

Raw Edge stitching:

Use the M foot to stop raw edges from fraying. There are multiple edge stitches to choose from such as overcast or overlock. See page 35 in the manual.

Materials & Thread: #

Tips: #

• Match fibre content:

  Make sure you match the thread’s fibre content to the fabric that you are using. For example, use natural fibre thread with natural fibre fabric and synthetic thread with man-made fabrics.

  Why? If you make a cotton chambray shirt, you should use cotton thread. That way, if you put a lot of pressure on the seam, the seam will pop rather than the fabric tear. While neither is desirable, the seam is easily sewn back together in a way that a fabric tear isn’t. This will also make the fabric and the seams behave similarly – so if you later want to dye the garment, both the fabric and the thread should take the dye in the same way.

  Always use the same thread type in both the needle and bobbin.

• Colour matching for hidden thread

  Make sure you match fabric and thread in daylight to get a good match. If you cannot get a complete match, always go for the darker thread, as a lighter thread can be more visible. With patterned fabrics, choose a thread to match the background colour.

• Thread weight

  Threads come in many different weights and thicknesses. The heavier or thicker your thread, the more visible your stitches will be. When using thicker threads, you may need to adjust your sewing machine’s tension and choose a sewing machine needle with a larger enough eye.

  Weight is shown as a measurement of the length of 1gm of thread (wt). If 1gm is 30 metres long, this thread is 30-weight. The higher the weight, the finer the thread. 40wt is the favourite weight for sewing.

  Use thicker threads to sew thicker fabrics for additional strength. Use 100% cotton thread, such as size 80 Madeira thread, on sheers, delicate fabrics and where you want to lose the stitch.

Material: #

• Calico: 100% unbleached Cotton, 150 gsm in weight. Perfect for toile making, curtain linings, crafts and painting or printing on.

Threads: #

• Cotton

  Material: Cotton is a seed-hair fibre made mostly of cellulose (a carbohydrate plant substance).

  Use: 100% cotton threads are limited in their elasticity, so they are best used only on cotton or linen fabrics and quilting projects. Do not use cotton thread to sew stretch fabrics; it doesn’t have the necessary ‘give’ and may snap. Included in this category is specialist quilting cotton, which is coated to allow smooth passage of the thread through many layers of cotton and wadding.

  Feel & Shine: It’s soft and won’t stretch. This thread has a low in lustre but can fade and shrink.

  Cleaning: Cotton has a slight shrinkage and will wear through washing.

• Silk

  Material: Silk is made from the silk worms cocoons and is thinner and more elastic with a high lustre. It tends to sink into garments, when sewn which is good for hand embroidery and needlework.

  Use: Silk thread is very fine and perfect for use with natural fibres such as silk or wool. It’s very strong and ideal for tailoring. Seaming, topstitching, buttonholes and hand sewing

  Cleaning: Can withstand high temperatures.

  TIP: Silk thread makes a good basting/tacking thread as it doesn’t leave holes in the fabric.

• Viscose/Rayon

  Material: Viscose ****products were developed to behave like artificial silk, providing affordable natural features and amazing softness and shine. Their source is in nature. However, they are considered to be semi-synthetic: they are obtained from the wood of certain trees, and the cellulose pulp is processed chemically into a viscous organic solution from which the threads are then obtained.

  In the best case, the raw materials come from certified forests that are responsibly managed environmentally, socially and economically

  Shine: Viscose thread unfolds in the light with an enchanting, silky, subtle sheen. If you aim to add multidimensionality and depth to designs or to create shimmer effects, then viscose threads will best support those purposes.

  Feel: Viscose threads are flexible and perform well in intricate designs or designs with numerous or dense stitches. They are gentle with the components of the embroidery machine they come in contact with and cause low friction and no residues. The designs will be pleasant to the touch, clear, precise and skin-friendly. 

  Use: Viscose threads are all-rounders; they offer a lot of freedom when comes to choosing the materials or stitch types and directions, and are better suited for dense fabrics than the polyester yarns. They always lie regularly and are beautiful on heavy to fine, light fabrics. They also cause almost no looping or thread breaks.

  Cleaning: Viscose threads, due to their natural raw materials, allow the use of standard detergents that do not contain bleaching agents. It can withstand high washing temperatures of 95 °C, and viscose has a better resistance to high ironing temperatures.

• Polyester 

  Sewing: Polyester makes a strong machine sewing thread with good abrasion resistance. It also has a slight stretch so it’s good for dressmaking as it will ‘give’ with the garment while being worn. This should be used when sewing synthetic fabrics and stretch knits, but is also good for cotton projects.

  Material: Polyester threads are synthetic, man-made products obtained from oil. They were developed especially for endurance and resistance to chemical processing, which might be needed for cleaning or design purposes (doesn’t shrink or fade). They also offer price convenience.

  Shine: Polyester ****has a strong, more straightforward shine. If light effects do not play a main role in the design, then either polyester or rayon will work well.

  Feel: Polyester threads have a harder touch, run stiffer, and feel a bit heavier, making them very suitable for harder materials and robust applications.

  Use: Polyester threads might feel a bit stronger and abrasive, but they are very suitable for products with similar properties, such as caps, backpacks, badges, promotional items, and hard synthetic materials.

  Because of their robustness, polyester threads are often the best choice for uniforms, workwear, bedding, children’s clothing, towels, white textiles, outerwear, swimsuits, jeans with a worn look and other products that must be bleached, or need to withstand harsh chemicals or commercial laundering.

  Cleaning: Polyester can withstand industrial cleaning procedures, heavy-duty detergents, bleaching and stone washing. Can be damaged when pressing on higher heat settings so are best used with synthetic fabrics which requires a cooler press.

• Nylon

  Nylon threads are synthetic, and although it is a very strong thread, the negatives of using can overweigh any positives. It’s not colourfast (its colour will change or lose brightness when it is washed) nor heat resistant, and will deteriorate over time with washing.